Ecuador:
Ecuador, with its beautiful scenery, is vulnerable to all kinds of natural disasters, such as flooding and earthquakes and volcanic eruptions.
In early 1998, Ecuador experienced some of the worst flooding along its coast in its history. Towns and villages were wiped out, and a lot of people died. In September 1999, an earthquake hit the Ambato area.
Then, the Tungurahua volcano began spewing ash and lava. This caused authorities to evacuate the lovely mountain town of Banos; however, the townspeople eventually took matters into their own hands and forced their way past the military blockades back into town. So you can once more stay in Banos, enjoying its fresh, fragrant air, hot springs, simpatico people, hikes and scenery. You just have to be aware that the volcano could erupt any time.
As well, the Pichincha volcano, within a short drive of Quito, erupts on and off, causing the Quito airport to be closed down sometimes because of all the volcanic ash clogging the air.
And, in November, 2002, the El Revenador volcano erupted for the first time in 26 years, spewing one million tonnes of volcanic ash all over Quito. This caused authorities to basically shut down the city, closing schools, workplaces and the airport!
A new president, Jamil Mahuad, was elected in 1998, with promises of economic reform. But in March 1999, his attempts to correct economic problems were met with a lot of resistance. There were street protests and marches and some rioting in all the cities, particularly in Quito. The Quito cab drivers even got in on the act, blockading the streets for three days to protest the increase in gas prices.
In January 2000, protesters across the country demanded that Mahuad resign, saying he had mismanaged the economy, sinking the country into deeper economic problems. The sucre sank to its lowest value ever, (about 27,000 per $1 U.S), and the army stood guard at highways, streets, government buildings and other key spots.
Then, on January 21, indigenous groups, along with a good number of army colonels, barged into the presidential palace and said they were taking over, led by a three-man junta. It was a coup, and the president retreated to an army base.
On January 22, Ecuador's Vice President Gustavo Noboa announced that he had taken over the country in order to preserve democracy. All this happened without any deaths or major violence, which just goes to prove how Ecuador is a very different place....
Over the years, there have been many protests and civil disruptions which didn't get into the North American press. When you go to Ecuador, don't be surprised if your plans have to be put on hold sometimes because protesters are blocking the highways out of the city, or burning effigies in the squares. Urban Ecuadorians take to the streets frequently.
Ecuador is like three countries in one: the coast, which is ultra-hot and humid, has a lot of banana plantations, is mostly impoverished, and most of the people are black or mestizo; the central highlands, which has a mild, spring-like climate, more middle class and wealthy people, and where, outside of Quito, most people are indigenous; and the Amazonian forests, where there's high humidity, tribal indigenous people, and not much in the way of "civilization." You can stay in jungle lodges and tour the rainforest with local guides. There are also the fabled Galapagos Islands, far off the coast in the Pacific. In January, 2001, an oil tanker capsized and sent an oil slick into the sea, threatening the animals and birdlife. The captain has apologized, but he's been sentenced to 90 days in jail.
With all the climatic variety and some of the highest mountains on earth, Ecuador is one of the most interesting places to visit. The people are "muy simpatico," and in small towns everyone will say hello to you. Hardly anyone speaks English, but they will speak Spanish slowly and use easy words to help you understand them.
The only thing you have to watch out for is the packs of dogs in the countryside. Rabies is a problem in rural Ecuador, and dogs run after hikers with intent to bite. If you are going to hike in Ecuador, get rabies shots before you leave home; otherwise you'll have to go for daily injections in your belly if you get bitten. Also, you can hire guides for a small amount of money, and they'll go with you on your explorations into the countryside. Jungle tours out of Mishuali and other outposts are more expensive, so go in a group and the cost will be lower.
Keep in mind that Quito is the second-highest capital city in the world. At 2,800 metres, it's high enough to cause high-altitude symptoms in nearly everyone. Expect your pulse to race, your heart to beat a lot faster, and your appetite to go away temporarily. Also, you'll be out of breath just from climbing short flights of stairs, and you probably won't sleep very well. Don't panic; all this is normal, and after a week or so, you'll be back to normal.
Also, avoid going anywhere near the Columbian border. In September 1999, seven Canadians and one American oil worker were kidknapped by an unidentified group. These hostages were released in mid-December, after a $3.5 million ransom had been paid through intermediaries. But still no-one really knows who the kidknappers were--a Colombian guerilla group? An Ecuadorean radical group?
Books: The Panama Hat Trail, by Tom Miller;
Savages, by Joe Kane: As described on the cover, this book is "a first-hand account, from the author of Running the Amazon, of how one small band of Amazonian warriors defended their territory against hell-bent oil companies, dogged missionaries, and starry-eyed environmentalists."
Films: Proof of Life: Takes place in a fictional country, but was filmed in Quito and surrounding Ecuadorean countryside.El Comercio (Quito daily newspaper) online (in Spanish)
Galapagos Islands travel information
Email me about Ecuador at lynnes@interlog.com, as I've been there many times and know a lot about the country.
This page last updated November 5, 2002.